Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Dressing Funny: Now You Know 3

Why do many clergy dress “funny,” especially at worship? Here’s the word.

Wearing Collars

Clergy collars are typically worn by Catholics, Anglicans, Lutherans, COGIC, and increasingly, United Methodists and Presbyterians. Other African-American clergy elect to wear them as well, including independent congregations not affiliated with denominations. Exactly when the practice started is subject to some speculation. One source claims they were first worn by Presbyterian clergy in Scotland. Others are less certain. Some date the seventeenth century as the general time when they emerged; others opt for later dates.

Generally, sources agree that the practice began as ordinary street wear which was adopted, then adapted by clergy. At some point, men’s dress shirts developed detachable collars (and cuffs). These could be changed daily without having to launder the entire shirt. These collars closed in front, usually with a collar pin. The adaptation by clergy was to reverse the collar, as it were, so it closed in back with a collar pin. Both are anchored in front with a collar pin.

The typical Episcopal clergy collar is white, extends completely around the neck and is often called a “dog collar.” There are two variations. Romans and many others, show only a white tab in front with the rest of the collar being black. The tab is actually a white plastic insert that fits into two pockets on the collar of the shirt. The third variation is a white tab with a quarter inch or so or white showing all around the collar top, while the rest of the collar is black. Generally, the choice of which to wear is up to the cleric.

The basic reasons for wearing a collar is to clearly identify a person as clergy. All orders of ordination may wear a collar--deacon, priest, and bishop.

 At Worship

The white garment worn at services of Holy Eucharist is called an alb, from the Latin word for white.  A garment much like this, the toga, was the daily wear of Romans, especially upper class Romans, in the formative years of the Church.  When clergy wore them they were just wearing their “street clothes.” But, as the dress style changed, the clergy kept the alb as their basic garment.  Originally these street clothes might be of different colors, but over time, the Christian community settled on white as a symbol of purity.  

Clergy are not the only ones who wear albs at worship; laity do as well.  Most albs have hoods, but some clergy and others wear a modified alb called a cassock-alb.  It is essentially an alb without a hood. One underlying reason clergy wear vestments is to cover what is worn under them so as to not call attention to themselves in a way that distracts.  The albs are tied at the waist with a cord called a cincture or girdle.

While all those at the altar wear the alb, clergy also wear a colored strip of cloth around their necks called a stole.  The stole is a sign of their office as clergy.  Priests wear it over both shoulders, hanging down the front. Deacons wear the stole diagonally from the left shoulder to the right side.  The stole originally was a kind of Roman robe or cloak which was worn by civic officials.  Over time, in the Church it became simpler and took its current form.  The stole represents the authority of the office of priest or deacon with the priest’s stole also said to represent the yoke of Christ they took on at ordination. The colors represent the liturgical season.

The celebrant of the Eucharist also wears an over garment called a chasuble.  Chasuble is from the Latin word for “little house” because the garment shelters the celebrant.  The chasuble can be simple or elaborate, but it is always seamless as Jesus’ robe was said to be—the robe for which the soldiers cast lots.  

For certain processions, such as major feast days, the celebrant or the Officiant may process wearing a cope.  The cope was originally just a cape worn outdoors to protect against the weather.  It is a large outer garment, open in front.  Attached to the back is a colorful section of cloth that originally was a hood.  Now it is purely decorative.

For other services called Offices, such as, funerals, weddings, and Morning and Evening Prayer, the Officiant will wear a long black garment called a cassock with a flowing over garment in white with a scooped neck, called a surplice.  The cassock is worn by some priests as daily wear over their other clothes.  It is long, to the tops of the shoes, and usually buttons up the front.  Low Church celebrants often wear cassock and surplice with a stole to celebrate the Eucharist.  For some of the offices, the Officiant may wear a black, stole-like band of cloth over the shoulders and down the front.  This is called a tippet and originated in the 14th century.  It is typically Anglican, though some non-Anglicans wear them. 

During the Reformation, many Churches rejected the use of vestments as too Catholic. On the contintent, clergy began wearing black, academic robes or gowns. They are typically called Geneva gowns since that’s where they originated. Some wore stoles; others did not. Some wore two small tabs at the collar of the stole about three inches wide and six or seven inches long. These are called preaching tabs and indicate the person is the “preacher of the day.” They are said to represent the two tablets of the Law.

Bishops dress differently from the other orders of clergy, but we’ve run out of space for this post.


Sartorially yours, Jerry+

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